by Wonsuh Song
It may come as a surprise to many that such abundant nature still exists right in the heart of Tokyo. If you step away from the city’s dense high-rises for a moment, you’ll find a garden where ancient trees and cherry blossoms harmonize, where black kites circle overhead, and where fireflies twinkle at dusk. This hidden haven is none other than the garden of Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo.
I first visited this place over ten years ago. After my second child was born, I booked a lighthearted “one-night getaway” stay, and I still vividly remember the impression it made on me. Even then, it was quite expensive, but the experience far exceeded my expectations. Despite it being winter, I was able to stroll all around the hotel’s garden with my baby, and each moment became a precious memory. Since then, life got busy and I rarely found another chance to return—until recently, when I heard about the magnificent cherry blossoms. So I decided to pay another visit.
But Chinzanso Garden is much more than a scenic spot; it carries a profound history. The hill was originally called “Tsubakiyama,” or “Camellia Hill,” because of the wild camellias (椿, tsubaki) growing here since the Nanboku-chō period (14th century). During the Edo period, it was home to the mansion of the Kuroda family. In the Meiji era, Yamagata Aritomo, a prominent statesman, purchased the land and developed the garden in earnest, emphasizing the importance of preserving natural beauty. His vision remains intact to this day. After passing through the hands of the Fujita family, the land eventually became the modern Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, standing as a rare, valuable green space in the heart of the capital for centuries.
Wandering around the garden reveals countless traces of Japan’s cultural history, from old stone lanterns to a small shrine, as well as Western-style sculptures integrated harmoniously with the surroundings. Taking a leisurely stroll by the pond—where koi carp swim peacefully—will let you forget, if only briefly, the fast-paced bustle of Tokyo. Blending elegant Western-style hotel services with the charm of a traditional Japanese garden, a stay here promises a truly unforgettable experience. Conveniently located near Waseda University and close to Shinjuku, it also makes for an easy addition to any travel itinerary.
If time and circumstances allow, I wholeheartedly recommend spending a night at Hotel Chinzanso. You’ll find serenity in nature, a distinctive Japanese atmosphere, and attentive service seamlessly coming together to soothe body and mind. Especially in spring, when cherry blossoms dance on the breeze, black kites circle in the sky, and fireflies illuminate the evening, you’ll witness firsthand why it’s dubbed an “oasis in the city.”
I hope that, through these words, I can convey even a fragment of the joy I felt staying here years ago with my children, as well as the profound awe I experienced under this year’s cherry blossoms. True to its name—“Camellia Hill” brimming with the vitality of spring—Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo offers a unique and lasting memory to anyone who visits.
Wonsuh Song (Ph.D.)
Lecturer at Shumei University / NKNGO Forum Representative
https://geographersong.jp/about/
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